Monday 18 April 2011

Maintaining your weave @ Home

I have noticed that a lot of my clients have major issues maintaining their weave or their hair extensions after it has been put in by a stylist. The hair looks amazing originally when put in, but when it comes to a couple of weeks after it looks like birds have nested in their hair. LOL   So I have come up with a 10 step guide with some simple steps, hints and solutions to maintaining your weave at home to give you that salon finished look from the comfort of your own home every time.

Step 1:  Using heat on your hair
Most people will use some form of heat to style their hair.  Whether it is a curling tongs, straighteners, hair dryer or any other heating utensil.  It is essential when using these heating appliances that you always use a heat protective spray or cream before applying any form of heat to your hair.  I personally prefer heat protective sprays as they are much lighter than the creams and I find that with the creams it weighs down the hair and can be quite sticky.  With the heat protective spray, you need to spray this evenly through your hair before styling, make sure not just the top of the hair is sprayed, but all through the layers.  I usually let the spray set for a couple of minutes before using any heating appliances on the hair, I find the spray more effective this way.  Also if using the heat protective cream it is important to use just a minimal amount of the cream, rub it between the palm of your hands and distribute it throughout the hair again leave it to set on the hair for a couple of minutes before using any heat appliances.  Using the heat protection spray or cream is important as heat from the appliances burn the hair and using the spray can make your weave or hair extensions last a lot longer, and prevent shedding of the hair.  Buy your heat protective spray or cream from your Kolours stylist now.

Always using heat protective spray or cream on your weave or hair extensions before using any heat appliances 

Step 2:  Straightening your hair or curling your hair

When straightening your hair it is important if you want your hair to be straightened properly to straighten it in small sections the smaller the sections the straighter your hair will be.  When straightening start from the nape of the neck (the back) and work your way up the hair.  Always make sure that the section of the hair that you are straightening has some heat protective spray or cream distributed on it.  Once each strand is straightened use a fine tooth comb or brush to go over it, to ensure flatness.  The key with straightening your hair is that the smaller the sections the straighter the hair will be.  If you don't want your hair very flat then take larger sections.  When you straighten your hair it should take your time approximately 1 hour, to do a good job.  I suggest straightening intensely once a week and then for every day to day straightening spending 5 - 10 minutes daily.   For people who have curly hair, you can use curling tongs to curl the hair.  It is important again to use heat protective spray or cream on the hair before tonging, this will also help to maintain the curls.  For long lasting curls spray a light layer of hair spray after tonging.  Also an alternative if you don't want to be applying excessive heat to the hair is the use of bendy rollers.  These are quite good if your are pushed for time.  For excessively curly hair extensions, back comb the hair to maintain the curls and volume of the hair, and use hair spray to set the curls.  Ask your Kolours hair stylist about advice on bendy rollers, curling tongs or straighteners.

When straightening your hair the smaller the sections the straighter and flatter the hair will be.  For excessively curly hair back comb and spray with hair spray.

Step 3:  Using hair serum or polisher
I see a lot of girls over use hair serum (or polisher) on their weaves or hair extensions.  This needs to be used in moderation and I suggest not using it more than twice a week.  It needs to be a pea size amount when using and usually use after straightening or using heat appliances on your hair.  Use a straightener to seal in the hair serum or polisher after distributing through the hair.  I would advise to not over use the hair serum, as it attracts dirt particles and the more you use the quicker your hair will become dirty, stiff and greasy.  Ask your Kolours stylist on advice about purchasing hair serum or polisher.

Use hair serum at a maximum twice a week and only use a pea sized amount.

Step 4:  Washing your weave
It is important to wash your weave at least once every 2 weeks and a maximum of once a week.  Washing the hair gets rid of products and grease and ensures the hair maintains a healthy shine and bounce.  Always brush hair before washing and get rid of any knots and tangles.  Wash hair with a gentle shampoo and try to avoid using harsh hair shampoos as it strips the hair of the cuticles and makes the hair become dry and brittle.  Using Keratin based products will replenish the hair of any lost hair nutrients.  Wash and condition in a  downwards motion to prevent tangling and knotting of the hair.  Follow this shampooing with a conditioner, distribute the conditioner on the hair and comb with a wide tooth comb, leave the conditioner on for a few minutes and then wash off.  For intensive conditioning of hair, again comb the conditioner through the hair and leave the conditioner on for 40 - 50 minutes, cover with a shower cap, then wash off.  The longer the conditioner is left on the softer and more manageable the hair will be.  An extra step that can be taken after conditioning the hair is the use of a leave in conditioner, this will increase the shine and bounce of the hair.  Try not to use an excessive amount of leave in conditioner as it will weigh down the hair extensions and make it become heavy and greasy, but this is optional and not essential.  For people who are stressed for time to wash their hair a convenient option is the use of a dry shampoo, this can be sprayed on the hair and refreshes the hair, aswell as making the weave and hair extensions smell nice, as they are usually scented.   Ask your Kolours stylist on advice on weave or hair extension friendly hair shampoos and conditioners or dry hair shampoo.

When washing weave wash in a downwards motion with hair shampoo, follow this with a conditioner and then finally with a leave in conditioner.  The longer the conditioner is left in the softer, smoother and shiner the hair.

Step 5:  Blow drying your weave
Try to avoid using a blow dryer on your weave, as it pulls out the hair from the wefts and increases shedding.   If possible let the hair dry naturally, this can usually take anything from 2 hours to a day depending on the temperature of the room.  This will prevent shedding and minimise hair loss.  If blow drying does need to be used make sure you use a heat protective spray or cream before applying any heat.  Part blow dry the hair and let the rest dry naturally.  The longest part of drying your weave is the cane rows on the bottom which take a long time to dry.  It is important the hair and cane rows are bone dry before trying to style with straighteners or curling irons, if it is not and you try and style it damp the hair will become frizzy after a couple of hours and the hair style will not hold.  Also never sleep with damp hair, so if you are going to wash your weave try doing it in the morning.  Sleeping with damp hair will cause the hair to tangle and not dry properly.

Try to avoid blow drying you hair let hair dry naturally and ensure hair and cane rows are bone dry before  further styling.

Step 6:  Brushing your weave
When brushing your weave it is important to make sure that you don't pull at your hair.  Make sure you start at the ends and work your way to the roots to minimise shedding and tangling.  Brush out any knots ad tangles in the hair.  Don't use a comb to brush hair as it will pull out the hair from the wefts.  Make sure you brush the hair everyday in the morning and before you go to bed, this will maintain the hair and prevent tangling, knots ad matting.  Ask your Kolours stylist on purchasing specialist hair extension brushes.

Always brush hair from the nape of the neck and gently brush out any tangles and knots

Step 7:  Sleeping with your weave
It is important that before going to bed you brush your hair.  After brushing there are two options you can use to maintain your weave.  The first is use a silk scarf to wrap your hair.  This helps maintain the cuticles on the hair, thus maintaining the weaves shine.  If you cannot obtain a silk scarf or your find it troublesome wrapping your hair every night, try sleeping on a silk pillow case as this does the same job.  Avoid cotton or nylon pillow cases as this causes the hair to tangle, and matt and increases shedding of the extensions. The second option if you cannot obtain a silk scarf or do not have access to one is to braid the hair.  You can plait the hair into two pigtail braids or one single braid.  The first option is preferable as it make the weave last much longer and reduces the amount of styling you need on the hair.  Also another important note is to make sure you wash the silk scarf or pillow case at least once a week, in conjunction with when you wash your hair.  This way it does not make the hair greasy and keeps washed hair clean.  Ask your Kolours stylist on purchasing a silk scarf for wrapping your hair.

Use a silk scarf or pillow when sleeping to maintain hair style and shine

Step 8:  Afro-Caribbean hair products
A lot of girls seem to be using Afro - Caribbean hair products on their weaves.  This is a big no no.  Avoid using pink oil, olive oil hair sheen or any Afro-Caribbean hair products on your weave or hair extensions.   These hair products are designed for Afro-Caribbean hair which are usually dry and brittle and have a heavy oil base in order to reinstate the natural oils to Afro-Caribbean hair.  When used on weaves they cause the hair to become stiff and greasy, causing the weave to attract more dirt particles quicker and more easily.  Try to use hair products used on Caucasian hair as this is the nature of  hair extensions used for your weave.  These products are non greasy and help to maintain the hairs shine and bounce.  Ask you Kolours stylist on purchasing styling products for your weave or hair extensions.


Avoid using Afro-Caribbean hair products on weaves, use products aimed towards Caucasian hair

Step 9:  Blending natural hair
Again another problem that girls find with maintaining there weave at home is blending the natural hair with the extensions.  It is important to make the weave look as natural as possible so straighten any natural hair left out of the weave, every time your are styling the hair.  Also using a fine toothed comb aswell as a paddle brush which will help to blend the natural hair with the hair extensions.  Also you can use a light wax on the natural hair, this can help with any fly aways on the hair and also help in blending your natural hair with the extensions.  Don't just leave your natural hair out and not style it as over time there will be a clear difference between the natural hair and hair extensions.  Ask your Kolours stylist on products for blending the hair extensions and the natural hair.

Try using a light wax and paddle brushes to help blend your natural hair with the hair extensions.


Step 10:  Synthetic hair styling
A lot of girls are using synthetic hair extensions for their weaves and I know that this can be very hard to maintain.  A lot of synthetic weaves can be straightened or tonged, but it is important to check the packaging for the temperatures that can be used for the hair.   An example is the Futura Fibre synthetic hair extensions which can be tonged and straigthened up to a temperature of 180 degrees, if styled above this heat the style is irreversible i.e.  if curly and straightened above 180 degrees, the hair will not go back to curly.  If your chosen synthetic hair cannot be heat styled make sure your straighten your natural hair and blend in as described in step 9.  Don't wash synthetic hair unless stated on packaging and try to avoid over use of products such as serums.  It is important that you always brush synthetic hair as described above and wrap as night to maintain the hair as much as possible.

Check the packaging of the synthetic hair for heat styling instructions and always try to blend natural hair in with the extensions.

I hope that this guide has helped all you guys out there that find it very difficult in maintaining you weave or hair extensions at home.  And if you follow this 10 step guideline your weave should always look healthy, shiny and bouncy.

KOLOURS
xxx

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