Choosing the right hair extensions for you - where to start?

I always find when I go to the hair shop, that choosing the right hair extension for me such a difficult task.  When you are met with a mass of different hair extensions, in length, colour and styles, it can be a bit overwhelming to know the right one.  So I have answered the most common questions that I get from clients on choosing the right hair extensions for you.

Should I get human hair or synthetic hair?

 Depending on your budget there are two types of extensions that you can choose from.  Human hair and synthetic hair.    Kolours hair stylists prefer human hair to synthetic hair as human hair is much easier to work with, stylable and can be reused again and again.  Synthetic hair is good if you are really strapped for money, but I would advise to not leave it in for more than 2 weeks, as it can look tacky, static and frizzy.  There are some good quality synthetic hair extensions on the market that act like human hair.  A good example is the Futura fibre, which acts exactly like human hair, but can only be styled at certain temperatures.  It is important when buying synthetic hair to read the packaging and make sure it suits your needs.  If you are the kind of person that likes styling their hair and want the weave to last a long time, they go for human hair.  But if you are the type of person that changes hair styles frequently, and likes a low maintenance weave then go for synthetic weaves.   Another thing to note is that some synthetic hair extensions cannot be cut, this is because they work against the blade of the scissors.  So again be very careful, when picking your hair extensions.  Another point to note is that synthetic hair is very good for if you want tight curly hair styles, as the curls will be maintained much better than with human hair. 

It is preferable to buy human hair extensions for your weaves, but good synthetic hair extensions such as Futura fibre are a good alternative, and relatively inexpensive.

How many packets of hair extensions should I buy?

As a rule of thumb I always advise clients to buy at least 2 packets of hair extensions, never 1 packet. Depending on the style of the hair you may need more or less than this.

Short hair extensions – short lengths in hair extensions such as 8 inches and 10 inches have a lot more in the packet than other lengths and if you are going for a short hair style don’t go for more than 2, as you will probably use one and a half at the most.

Middle parting hairstyles – I find with my clients that 2 packets of hair extensions for middle partings is just about enough for a weave.  If you want it very full then I suggest getting a third packet, you will usually use 2 and half packets for middle parting hair styles

Side parting hairstyles  - 2 packets is usually enough for side partings, but again if you want fullness and body then get a third packet.

Full fringes – usually when doing a full fringe for my clients I use 1 packet and a half.  Maximum 2 packets, but on very rare occasions.  When doing full fringed hair you don’t want the hair to be full, but flat and sleek, so no more than 2 packs of hair extensions should be used.

Virgin hair – this is all the Brazilian, Indian, Peruvian, etc hair that is currently on the market.  Usually a pack should be a minimum of 100g in weight.  The longer the hair the less weft you are going to get in the pack.  I suggest with virgin hair to get at least 3 packets and if you want really full hair use 4 – 5 packets of hair – 400g to 500g.

Curly hair extensions (body waves) – with curly hair extensions I suggest 2 packets, the hair will lie thick anyway because of the curls, if you try and make the hair too full, the hair can tend to look square and overfull, and you want the hair extensions to look as natural as possible.

When buying hair extensions you are always going to need a minimum of 2 packets for the weave.  This can vary depending on the style of the weave.

What colour hair extensions should I get?

I find a lot of my clients picking the wrong type of hair colour for their hair extensions; I think it is important to pick a colour that suits your skin tone and the time of year.  I find that with clients if you have a lighter skin tone go for lighter shades of brown such as Colour 2 or 4, and if you have a darker skin tone go for darker colours such as Colour 1 or 1B.  These hair colours will compliment your skin tone and look much more natural.  Also in terms of the time of year, in winter I suggest having darker colours such as Colour 1 or 1B, as they absorb the heat and keep you warmer, in spring  and autumn having light brown shades such as colour 2, 4 or 6, then in summer having blonde highlighted tones such as colour 4/27, as it keeps you cooler by reflecting the heat.   By changing your hair colour according to the time of year, this will always give you a new and exciting look.  Here are some more colour advice tips into buying hair extensions:

Natural Hair colours – for Afro-Caribbean women your natural hair colour will be colour 1B if you are darker in complexion, and for people who have a lighter skin tone colour 2.

Subtle highlights - subtle highlights through your hair can give your hair bounce, shine and different dimensions.  For Afro-Caribbean women I personally feel that buying a pack of colour 2 and colour 4 for lighter skin tones, gives a very nice but subtle highlight, and for darker skin tones buying a pack of colour 1B and colour 2 gives you the same effect.

Highlighted hair extensions – a lot of girls seem to buying hair extensions that already highlighted or a mix of two colours, but are buying them incorrectly, by buying 2 packs of the highlighted hair extensions.  If you wanted blonde Beyonce highlights through your hair the highlighted hair extension pack to pick is colour 4/27, but I would advice to also buy a colour 4 pack aswell.  This makes the hair look much more natural, as the blonde colour 27 can be quite overpowering.  So whenever buying highlighted hair extensions always buy the pack o f highlighted extension, then a pack of the darker colour aswell.

Red hair extensions – a lot of my clients want to have Rhianna red hair extensions, but find it difficult getting the exact red colour that they want.  The red hair extensions on the market seem to be more burgundy than anything else.   If you want really red hair extensions the same way Rhianna has it I suggest buying platinum blonde hair extensions or blonde extensions, as close to white as possible, then dying the hair extensions red using hair dye.  Ask your Kolours stylist on more advice for dying your hair extensions red.

When picking hair extension colour take into consideration your skin tone and time of year and pick to suit this.

What length should I go for?

The longer the hair extensions the harder it is to maintain.  I advise clients to not go beyond 20 inches in hair extensions, beyond this looks unnatural and you end up with hair that is ratty, and hard to maintain.  For those girls that want to go beyond 20 inches I would advise to go for two packets of that length, as one packet will make the ends look thin and scanty.    If you want your hair to look natural a common length is 16 or 14 inches.

Fringes – If you want a side fringe I would suggest to go for an 8 inch hair extension on top of your normal packets of hair extension, this will give a natural looking fringe and is better than cutting the fringe.

Full fringes – If you want a full fringe get packets of hair extensions that are the same length as this will give a better dimension of the hair, and be better when cutting the fringe.  You don’t want the hair to be layered when doing full fringed weaves and you dont need to get a shorter hair extension for the full fringe as it looks odd and does not blend in with the hair properly.

Layers – If you want layers in your hair don’t buy all the same length and then ask your Kolours hairstylist to cut it.  This is a waste of your money and hair extension, just buy different lengths.  For the layered effect I advise to buy 4 inches apart in hair extensions.  For example if you are buying 3 packs of extensions and you want a layered effect  an example would to go for 16 inches, 12 inches and 8 inches, so whatever your longest length is, go 4 inches lower than this.

The longer the hair extensions the harder to maintain.  If you want  layered hair buy different lengths of extensions 4 inches apart.

Which style hair extensions should I choose?

There are 3 main styles of hair extensions that you can choose from.  These are straight, body waves and curly.  Straight hair extensions usually comes in yaki or European hair.  Yaki blends in better with Afro-Caribbean hair, whereas European hair is much silkier than yaki hair.  There is not much difference between the two but I always advise to go for European hair extensions as they seem to be easier to maintain, shed less and last longer than the yaki hair extensions.  They also take hair products much better than yaki hair extensions.

Straight hair – this is good style to get for middle partings and full fringes.   Try to go for the longer lengths as it is more flattering to your body, especially for middle partings.  This is also good for bobs and short hair cuts as well, as it gives a sleek and polished look to the hair.

Body waves - these are good for side partings and middle partings.  For the side parting go for the longer lengths or shoulder lengths hair extensions for middle partings go for long lengths of hair extensions.

Curly hair – with curly hair I tend to advise to not go for very long lengths as it is too hard to maintain.  Go for shoulder or just below the shoulder lengths with curly hair, it will look much more natural and be easier for you as a client to maintain.  With curly hair it  is best to go for side partings, and use mixture of weave and single braids at the parting to make the hair look as natural as possible.

Knowing the style you want for your hair is important when choosing the style of the hair extensions you want.  If in any doubt always go for straight hair extensions as it is much more versatile than any other style and are easier for your Kolours hair stylist to manipulate.

Following this guide above is important for when choosing the right extensions for you.  Always make sure you consider length, colour, style and skin tone.  With this winning formula you can never have a bad weave again.

Kolours

xxx

Maintaining your weave @ Home

I have noticed that a lot of my clients have major issues maintaining their weave or their hair extensions after it has been put in by a stylist. The hair looks amazing originally when put in, but when it comes to a couple of weeks after it looks like birds have nested in their hair. LOL   So I have come up with a 10 step guide with some simple steps, hints and solutions to maintaining your weave at home to give you that salon finished look from the comfort of your own home every time.

Step 1:  Using heat on your hair

Most people will use some form of heat to style their hair.  Whether it is a curling tongs, straighteners, hair dryer or any other heating utensil.  It is essential when using these heating appliances that you always use a heat protective spray or cream before applying any form of heat to your hair.  I personally prefer heat protective sprays as they are much lighter than the creams and I find that with the creams it weighs down the hair and can be quite sticky.  With the heat protective spray, you need to spray this evenly through your hair before styling, make sure not just the top of the hair is sprayed, but all through the layers.  I usually let the spray set for a couple of minutes before using any heating appliances on the hair, I find the spray more effective this way.  Also if using the heat protective cream it is important to use just a minimal amount of the cream, rub it between the palm of your hands and distribute it throughout the hair again leave it to set on the hair for a couple of minutes before using any heat appliances.  Using the heat protection spray or cream is important as heat from the appliances burn the hair and using the spray can make your weave or hair extensions last a lot longer, and prevent shedding of the hair.  Buy your heat protective spray or cream from your Kolours stylist now.

Always using heat protective spray or cream on your weave or hair extensions before using any heat appliances 

Step 2:  Straightening your hair or curling your hair

When straightening your hair it is important if you want your hair to be straightened properly to straighten it in small sections the smaller the sections the straighter your hair will be.  When straightening start from the nape of the neck (the back) and work your way up the hair.  Always make sure that the section of the hair that you are straightening has some heat protective spray or cream distributed on it.  Once each strand is straightened use a fine tooth comb or brush to go over it, to ensure flatness.  The key with straightening your hair is that the smaller the sections the straighter the hair will be.  If you don't want your hair very flat then take larger sections.  When you straighten your hair it should take your time approximately 1 hour, to do a good job.  I suggest straightening intensely once a week and then for every day to day straightening spending 5 - 10 minutes daily.   For people who have curly hair, you can use curling tongs to curl the hair.  It is important again to use heat protective spray or cream on the hair before tonging, this will also help to maintain the curls.  For long lasting curls spray a light layer of hair spray after tonging.  Also an alternative if you don't want to be applying excessive heat to the hair is the use of bendy rollers.  These are quite good if your are pushed for time.  For excessively curly hair extensions, back comb the hair to maintain the curls and volume of the hair, and use hair spray to set the curls.  Ask your Kolours hair stylist about advice on bendy rollers, curling tongs or straighteners.

When straightening your hair the smaller the sections the straighter and flatter the hair will be.  For excessively curly hair back comb and spray with hair spray.

Step 3:  Using hair serum or polisher

I see a lot of girls over use hair serum (or polisher) on their weaves or hair extensions.  This needs to be used in moderation and I suggest not using it more than twice a week.  It needs to be a pea size amount when using and usually use after straightening or using heat appliances on your hair.  Use a straightener to seal in the hair serum or polisher after distributing through the hair.  I would advise to not over use the hair serum, as it attracts dirt particles and the more you use the quicker your hair will become dirty, stiff and greasy.  Ask your Kolours stylist on advice about purchasing hair serum or polisher.

Use hair serum at a maximum twice a week and only use a pea sized amount.

Step 4:  Washing your weave

It is important to wash your weave at least once every 2 weeks and a maximum of once a week.  Washing the hair gets rid of products and grease and ensures the hair maintains a healthy shine and bounce.  Always brush hair before washing and get rid of any knots and tangles.  Wash hair with a gentle shampoo and try to avoid using harsh hair shampoos as it strips the hair of the cuticles and makes the hair become dry and brittle.  Using Keratin based products will replenish the hair of any lost hair nutrients.  Wash and condition in a  downwards motion to prevent tangling and knotting of the hair.  Follow this shampooing with a conditioner, distribute the conditioner on the hair and comb with a wide tooth comb, leave the conditioner on for a few minutes and then wash off.  For intensive conditioning of hair, again comb the conditioner through the hair and leave the conditioner on for 40 - 50 minutes, cover with a shower cap, then wash off.  The longer the conditioner is left on the softer and more manageable the hair will be.  An extra step that can be taken after conditioning the hair is the use of a leave in conditioner, this will increase the shine and bounce of the hair.  Try not to use an excessive amount of leave in conditioner as it will weigh down the hair extensions and make it become heavy and greasy, but this is optional and not essential.  For people who are stressed for time to wash their hair a convenient option is the use of a dry shampoo, this can be sprayed on the hair and refreshes the hair, aswell as making the weave and hair extensions smell nice, as they are usually scented.   Ask your Kolours stylist on advice on weave or hair extension friendly hair shampoos and conditioners or dry hair shampoo.

When washing weave wash in a downwards motion with hair shampoo, follow this with a conditioner and then finally with a leave in conditioner.  The longer the conditioner is left in the softer, smoother and shiner the hair.

Step 5:  Blow drying your weave
Try to avoid using a blow dryer on your weave, as it pulls out the hair from the wefts and increases shedding.   If possible let the hair dry naturally, this can usually take anything from 2 hours to a day depending on the temperature of the room.  This will prevent shedding and minimise hair loss.  If blow drying does need to be used make sure you use a heat protective spray or cream before applying any heat.  Part blow dry the hair and let the rest dry naturally.  The longest part of drying your weave is the cane rows on the bottom which take a long time to dry.  It is important the hair and cane rows are bone dry before trying to style with straighteners or curling irons, if it is not and you try and style it damp the hair will become frizzy after a couple of hours and the hair style will not hold.  Also never sleep with damp hair, so if you are going to wash your weave try doing it in the morning.  Sleeping with damp hair will cause the hair to tangle and not dry properly.

Try to avoid blow drying you hair let hair dry naturally and ensure hair and cane rows are bone dry before  further styling.

Step 6:  Brushing your weave
When brushing your weave it is important to make sure that you don't pull at your hair.  Make sure you start at the ends and work your way to the roots to minimise shedding and tangling.  Brush out any knots ad tangles in the hair.  Don't use a comb to brush hair as it will pull out the hair from the wefts.  Make sure you brush the hair everyday in the morning and before you go to bed, this will maintain the hair and prevent tangling, knots ad matting.  Ask your Kolours stylist on purchasing specialist hair extension brushes.

Always brush hair from the nape of the neck and gently brush out any tangles and knots

Step 7:  Sleeping with your weave
It is important that before going to bed you brush your hair.  After brushing there are two options you can use to maintain your weave.  The first is use a silk scarf to wrap your hair.  This helps maintain the cuticles on the hair, thus maintaining the weaves shine.  If you cannot obtain a silk scarf or your find it troublesome wrapping your hair every night, try sleeping on a silk pillow case as this does the same job.  Avoid cotton or nylon pillow cases as this causes the hair to tangle, and matt and increases shedding of the extensions. The second option if you cannot obtain a silk scarf or do not have access to one is to braid the hair.  You can plait the hair into two pigtail braids or one single braid.  The first option is preferable as it make the weave last much longer and reduces the amount of styling you need on the hair.  Also another important note is to make sure you wash the silk scarf or pillow case at least once a week, in conjunction with when you wash your hair.  This way it does not make the hair greasy and keeps washed hair clean.  Ask your Kolours stylist on purchasing a silk scarf for wrapping your hair.

Use a silk scarf or pillow when sleeping to maintain hair style and shine

Step 8:  Afro-Caribbean hair products

A lot of girls seem to be using Afro - Caribbean hair products on their weaves.  This is a big no no.  Avoid using pink oil, olive oil hair sheen or any Afro-Caribbean hair products on your weave or hair extensions.   These hair products are designed for Afro-Caribbean hair which are usually dry and brittle and have a heavy oil base in order to reinstate the natural oils to Afro-Caribbean hair.  When used on weaves they cause the hair to become stiff and greasy, causing the weave to attract more dirt particles quicker and more easily.  Try to use hair products used on Caucasian hair as this is the nature of  hair extensions used for your weave.  These products are non greasy and help to maintain the hairs shine and bounce.  Ask you Kolours stylist on purchasing styling products for your weave or hair extensions.


Avoid using Afro-Caribbean hair products on weaves, use products aimed towards Caucasian hair

Step 9:  Blending natural hair

Again another problem that girls find with maintaining there weave at home is blending the natural hair with the extensions.  It is important to make the weave look as natural as possible so straighten any natural hair left out of the weave, every time your are styling the hair.  Also using a fine toothed comb aswell as a paddle brush which will help to blend the natural hair with the hair extensions.  Also you can use a light wax on the natural hair, this can help with any fly aways on the hair and also help in blending your natural hair with the extensions.  Don't just leave your natural hair out and not style it as over time there will be a clear difference between the natural hair and hair extensions.  Ask your Kolours stylist on products for blending the hair extensions and the natural hair.

Try using a light wax and paddle brushes to help blend your natural hair with the hair extensions.

Step 10:  Synthetic hair styling

A lot of girls are using synthetic hair extensions for their weaves and I know that this can be very hard to maintain.  A lot of synthetic weaves can be straightened or tonged, but it is important to check the packaging for the temperatures that can be used for the hair.   An example is the Futura Fibre synthetic hair extensions which can be tonged and straigthened up to a temperature of 180 degrees, if styled above this heat the style is irreversible i.e.  if curly and straightened above 180 degrees, the hair will not go back to curly.  If your chosen synthetic hair cannot be heat styled make sure your straighten your natural hair and blend in as described in step 9.  Don't wash synthetic hair unless stated on packaging and try to avoid over use of products such as serums.  It is important that you always brush synthetic hair as described above and wrap as night to maintain the hair as much as possible.

Check the packaging of the synthetic hair for heat styling instructions and always try to blend natural hair in with the extensions.

I hope that this guide has helped all you guys out there that find it very difficult in maintaining you weave or hair extensions at home.  And if you follow this 10 step guideline your weave should always look healthy, shiny and bouncy.

KOLOURS

xxx